Israel was the crossroads throughout ancient history for all the leading civilizations. It was a key link on the trade routes for the ‘fertile crescent’ civilizations (Mesopotamia, Persia, Egypt, Assyria, Rome, etc.) Israel honoring its heritage has created a wonderful national park system. The parks encompass many of the major archeological sites in the country. We visited and explored at least 3 parks (archeological sites) per day. Beth realized immediately how LITTLE knowledge we received about these early civilizations during my school years. Beth is now hitting the books to add to my knowledge and understanding.
My first impression was the varied and hilly landscape all covered with ROCKSs and ROCKS and MORE ROCKS. Yes, there were fields that were cultivated, but they were cultivating rock fields and growing vegetables amidst the rocks. They used rocks to create walls, make ownership demarcations, make terraces, and piles just to make rock piles and of course they mastered the art of delicate and lovely mosaics (which they laid out on large rock tables).
Israel has land that goes up from 3963 feet above to 1312 feet below sea level. It was interesting seeing the road signs ‘sea level’ and we were still going down (or up) the hill. We spent 4 days on the Sea of Galilee staying at the town of ‘Tiberias’ (640 feet below sea level). Then we spent 4 days staying on the Mount of Olives across the hill from Jerusalem. From Tiberias, We explored Galilee (land where Jesus taught and lived as a young man) from the northern Israeli border to the western Mediterranean coast to the East Side of the Sea of Galilee. We visited the familiar religious sites of Capernaum, the Mount of the Beatitudes, Nazareth, Samaria, Shechem, as well as the ancient sites of Dan, Hazor, Caesarea (again, Caesarea), Beit Shearim, Jezreel Valley, Beit Shean, Beit Alpha, Megiddo (site of Armageddon?), Hammat-Tiberias Synagogue and Zipporis.
From the Mt of Olives, we explored Jerusalem, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Zion Church (built on the Antonian fortress where the Roman solders tortured Christ), St Anne’s (built around Hadrian’s temple and esclepian pool where Christ is said to have performed healing, also where Mary and Anne were supposedly born in caves under the church – others say they were born in Zippori); Garden of Gestsemae, The Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock and El Aksa (Lovely Mosques with incredible stained glass windows, the mosques had been used by crusaders as their headquarters); Arad, Masada, Herodian, the Dead Sea, the Judean Wilderness, Qumran (Dead Sea scrolls), and Jericho. We actually walked through the Judean wilderness (~3 miles) along the Wadi Qelt into Jericho --- a truly wonderful experience.
After Jericho, we went into Jordan (Amman) for 2 nights. The Armanite peoples settled this land – tradition says they were descendants from Lot’s son Arman. We drove 3 ½ hours south along an old caravan route to Petra (where some civilization carved the hills into buildings and buildings and caves and caves). A lost civilization of Nabateans built Petra Herod married a Nabatean princess (and then left her for Salome) to gain control. While in Jordan, we explored Petra, Jarish (where we saw amazing Roman architecture and more and more and more), St Georges Church, and Mt Elbo. Finally, we drove back to Israel and the airport after stopping for our last dinner in Bethlehem.
Snapshots and Impressions from the trip:
Beth enjoyed seeing the Bedouin villages as we drove around Israel and Jordan. The Bedouins do not carry ‘papers’ and are accepted by all the countries in the area --- they are free to travel (being nomads) over borders with their sheep & tents --- however she noticed that the cities are encroaching on their lands and villages and open spaces.
Participating in communion services at the Mt of the Beatitudes and along the Wadi Qelt trail.
Boat ride across the Sea of Galilee from Capernaum to Tiberias for lunch!
Seeing the works of Herod the Great ---he was an incredible engineer and architect and very very creative. True he also was vicious and had a mean side to him, but we do not learn about his positive side and building feats. We explored 4 major building sites (fortresses with water drainage systems and supplies).
Seeing the lovely and ancient frescoes and Mosaics in many of the ancient city ruins (some early zodiacs and maps were done in mosaics).
Samaria reminded us of eastern WY or the western slopes of CO with a lot of stone cliffs (remember the rocks)
AHHHhhhhh Jerusalem! A favorite spot. Sitting in the cemetery on the Mt. Of Olives painting Jerusalem and watching the lights of the city turn on --- a truly magical moment!
Israel is a land of many contrasts --- desolation in the deserts, hilly in the north, valleys for farming amidst the rocks, lovely blue of the Dead Sea, cairns to mark the land ownership of the Bedouin fields.
Visiting and praying at the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem, going through airport type security to get to the wall.
Lighting candles in Bethlehem and Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Visiting the Ethiopian Coptic site at the Holy Sepulchre, and giving them some $ -- they are so poor they could not afford lights or heat in their church.
Groups of children visiting the National parks always accompanied by ‘large’ men carrying BIG automatic weapons (sometimes the older children were carrying weapons if no ‘large’ man was around)
Desert sandstorm in Jordan --- which turned into raining mud to wash away the sand on the first night as we arrived at Amman (we were told that the end of January marks the beginning of 50 days of wind and rain (with sand) for their winter called Khamasin).
Traveling on the caravan route that is still being used today to take oil from Iraq to the Red Sea port in Jordan in exchange for basic goods. These goods are then transported (same caravan route) over the Jordanian Mountains into Iraq. Seeing all the truck traffic carrying goods/oil north and south as we traveled north and south on the route. Hearing the Jordanian guide talking about their neighbors (Iraq, Iran, Syria, Saudi in normal language as we would talk about our neighbors in Canada or Mexico -- a pleasant change from all the verbiage we receive at home about these countries.
Passing an (now established town) Palestinian Refugee camp. This camp initially established in 1948, renewed in 1964 and again in 1983 and still active today.
Driving out of Jordan in a Desert Storm – drive down through the hillside from Mt Elbo (where Moses supposedly saw the Promised Land and then sent the Hebrews into Canaan?) To the Jordan River and crossing back into Israel.
Going through customs into and out of Jordan/Israel.
Visiting Jaresh (an incredible Roman Decapolis site --- great archeological preservation) on our last day. We were in Sunshine in Jaresh, a ‘Sand Storm’ at Mt Elbo and Rain in Israel (Bethlehem) and 3 hour delay taking off at the airport due to paper work? Snow on the ground in NJ when we touched down 20 hours later.
Glossary:
HAR = hill
TEL = hill with a city
BET = house
BAMA = high place in temple
FOOD:
Wonderful Middle Eastern fare of salads, hummos, Baba Gnouish, Eggplants made in 100 different and yummy ways and cauliflower with rice. Beth obtained the following recipe verbally from the owner/chief of the Bethlehem restaurant for the cauliflower (she also purchased some of the spices in Jerusalem to recreate the dish – she’ll let anyone who calls know if it turned out):
First fry cauliflower in Olive Oil
Add Sumac (red and mild) spice to cauliflower
Put cauliflower in bottom of pan
Place dry rice on top
Add chicken broth, cover the pot and cook!
(Let the bottom of the rice pan brown a little and turn the pot over onto platter – the cauliflower should be a nice brown-red color and on top of the rice – a wonderful dish!)
Soak onions in vinegar
(red sumac can be found in Arabian area markets – Newark, Jersey City)
Fry onions and eggplant in Olive Oil
Season with red sumac
Serve---makes a nice side dish with relishes and rice